The Ultimate Guide to Caring for Vintage Luxury Designer Handbags

Protecting your Investment for Years to Come

When you're privileged to possess vintage luxury designer handbags, you're not just carrying a stylish accessory; you've also got a precious piece of fashion history in your hands. These ageless beauties, especially those well over 15 years old, require meticulous care to keep them in mint condition and protect your valuable investment. Let's decode the art and science of caring for these treasures that have the potential to only become more valuable over time. 

"Preserving vintage luxury handbags isn't just about the right care techniques; it's a commitment to maintain and cherish a timeless elegance that transcends transient fashion trends."

Before we delve into the intricate details of maintenance, it's worth understanding some fundamentals related to the material and construction of the bags. This would greatly influence the care routine. We've distilled some key considerations into a handy list: 

  • Leather or Fabric: Is your bag made of leather or fabric? Leather demands regular conditioning to prevent drying out and cracking, while fabric may require unique cleaning methods to avoid fading or staining.

  • Hardware: The hardware on your bag - such as buckles, clasps, and zippers - may need special attention to prevent tarnishing.

  • Embellishments: Does your bag have any delicate embellishments like sequins, pearls, or embroidery? These must be cautiously handled to prevent accidental dislodging or damage.

  • Storage: Appropriate storage techniques, preferably in a dust bag or box, are crucial to maintain the shape and prevent dust accumulation.

Nearly 30% of luxury handbag owners do not know how to properly care for their items. Knowing the nuances of these factors could indeed go a long way in safeguarding your treasured accessory. 

A question of materials 

Vintage luxury designer handbags are often crafted from a variety of high-quality materials. One of the most common is leather, which is prized for its durability and timeless appeal. This can range from smooth calf leather to more exotic varieties like crocodile or ostrich. Another frequently used material is canvas, particularly in bags produced by brands like Louis Vuitton and Gucci.

Coated canvas can be highly durable and can be easily cleaned, making it a practical choice. The coating adds resistance to water and stains while a plain canvas may be more prone to staining. Suede is also a common material in vintage luxury handbags. This soft, napped leather adds a touch of luxury and sophistication. However, it can be more susceptible to damage and colour transfer and requires careful handling.

Some vintage designer handbags also feature unique materials like PVC, wood, sequins and embroidery on delicate satins or even precious stones for decorative purposes. These materials are typically used in limited edition or special collection pieces. 

...and their issues

One of the most common damage issues faced by vintage handbag owners is discoloration. This can occur due to prolonged exposure to sunlight, humidity, or contact with certain materials.

Close-up of a vintage handbag showing common aging signs

It's particularly prevalent in lighter-colored bags, and can significantly impact the bag's overall appearance and value. Proper storage is crucial to maintaining the condition of vintage handbags. They should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. 

Our founder and luxury connoisseur says a frequent mistake she sees is people storing their bags in plastic containers. While aesthetically pleasing, this solution creates an environment for mould growth, something that our experts come across before refusing a bag at the quality control stage. 

Image of Chanel bags in plastic storage containers

Leather cracking or peeling is also a common problem. This happens when the bag is not properly stored or conditioned, causing the leather to dry out and crack. Once the leather starts to peel or crack, restoration becomes more challenging. 

Close up of signs of wear and leather cracking on luxury vintage handbags

Staining is another prevalent issue, particularly for bags made from delicate materials like silk or suede, depending on the material and the severity of the stain, it can be very difficult to remove. 

Stains can occur from ink, food, makeup, or even the oils from your skin. Handle vintage handbags with clean hands to avoid transferring oils, creams, or makeup.  When it comes to Hermès, some of the most significant wear we see on pre-loved and vintage models is on the handles - to minimise this, frequenty cleaning with a clean cloth is essential but you can certainly get creative and wrap the infamous twilly around the handles of your top handle handbags to protect the leather from these elements. 

Image showing a handbag with the handle wrapped with a scarf and another with no scarf, showing signs of leather cracking

Lastly, odor absorption is a common issue with vintage handbags. Over time, bags can absorb smells from their environment, such as smoke or perfume. This can be particularly problematic as odors can be hard to eliminate and can make the bag unpleasant to use. 

How to store your vintage handbags

Proper care can extend the lifespan of a luxury handbag by up to 50%

Image showing an improper way of storing bags, all piled into a wardrobe

The ideal storage conditions for vintage designer bags involve maintaining a temperature controlled environment to the best of your ability. This means avoiding extreme temperatures and high humidity levels, which can cause materials to expand, contract, or develop mold. A room temperature of around 20-25 degrees Celsius (68-77 degrees Fahrenheit) is typically suitable. Light exposure is another crucial factor to consider. Direct sunlight or harsh artificial light can fade colors and damage materials over time. Therefore, it's recommended to store your vintage handbags in a dark place or at least away from direct light sources. Proper ventilation is also essential to prevent the growth of mold and mildew. While it might be tempting to store your bags in plastic containers for protection, these can trap moisture and create a breeding ground for mold. Instead, opt for breathable fabric dust bags or one of our Luxe satinated dustbags. 

Moreover, the bags should be stored in an upright position to maintain their shape. There are some exceptions to this rule however - if you have yourself a heavy, unstructed bag by design, letting it sit upright could lead to a more saggy appearance as the leather settles into this shape. We recommend to store Retourne Hermès Kellys and Birkins laying down on their back or in their original boxes if availalbe.  If the bag doesn't stand up on its own, consider filling it with acid-free tissue paper or a handbag pillow. However, avoid overstuffing as it can stretch the material. More structured bags like the Chanel Classic flap, will perfectly sit upright as their weight and structure will not contribute to shape-changes. 

Lastly, ensure each bag has enough space around it. Crowding can cause scratches or other damage. If you're storing several bags together, make sure they're not touching each other. Using individual compartments or shelves can help maintain the necessary space.

Remember, the key to preserving your vintage luxury designer handbags is regular maintenance and careful storage. By adhering to these guidelines, you can protect your investment and enjoy your collection for many years to come.

Can I clean my bags?

Luxury handbag experts recommend a variety of cleaning and maintenance procedures to keep vintage designer bags in top condition. Regular cleaning is essential to keep vintage handbags in mint condition. Use a soft, dry cloth to gently wipe away any dust or dirt. Specialised cleaning products are available for different materials such as leather, suede, and fabric. Always test a small, inconspicuous area first. 

Close up image of a luxury handbag expert, treating a vintage handbag

Regular dusting is also an important maintenance step. Use a soft, dry cloth to gently remove dust and dirt from the surface of your bag. If your bag is made of leather, consider using a leather conditioner to keep the material supple and prevent cracking. Apply the conditioner sparingly, as too much can darken the leather. For bags made of canvas or fabric, spot cleaning with a mild soap and water solution can be effective. However, avoid soaking the material and always test the solution on an inconspicuous area first.

If your bag has metal hardware, be sure to polish it regularly with a soft cloth or jewellery cloth to prevent tarnishing. 

Finally, if your bag requires a deep clean or repair, it's best to consult a professional. Hermès is known for its lifetime aftersale support through their spa service while other reputable professional repair services like The Handbag Clinic, can advise on what is possible for a variety of the most popular styles on the market. 

 

Images: Marketplace, Pinterest, Emier, The Handbag Clinic

Tasha Dobie

Founder of The Square Agency & Official Squarespace Partner

https://www.thesquareagency.com
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